{"id":21163,"date":"2020-06-29T22:27:47","date_gmt":"2020-06-29T22:27:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/?p=21163"},"modified":"2020-07-02T15:46:30","modified_gmt":"2020-07-02T15:46:30","slug":"fast-food-is-comforting-but-in-low-income-areas-it-crowds-out-fresher-options","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/fast-food-is-comforting-but-in-low-income-areas-it-crowds-out-fresher-options\/","title":{"rendered":"Fast food is comforting, but in low-income areas it crowds out fresher options"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/profiles\/catherine-keske-1032210\">Catherine Keske<\/a>, <em><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/institutions\/university-of-california-merced-2056\">University of California, Merced<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n<p>Many Americans take comfort in the routine of jumping into the car and grabbing a burger. They choose restaurants with familiar faces behind the counter. They even yearn for a favorite \u201cgreasy spoon\u201d diner while having to cook for themselves at home during COVID-19.<\/p>\n<p>People feel emotionally attached to food and the routines associated with it. These rituals provide a sense of comfort and belonging \u2013 even if the meal is from a fast-food restaurant and they stood in line for it.<\/p>\n<p>I study <a href=\"https:\/\/scholar.google.com\/citations?user=tttzFVsAAAAJ&amp;hl=en\">food security<\/a> in California\u2019s Central Valley, which is, ironically, one of the most productive agricultural areas in the world. Food security means maintaining <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fao.org\/fileadmin\/templates\/faoitaly\/documents\/pdf\/pdf_Food_Security_Cocept_Note.pdf\">reliable, consistent access to food<\/a>. It requires time and resources that are often scarce in <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1007\/s12571-008-0002-y\">food-insecure households<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Many people in the food-rich Central Valley experience a high degree of food insecurity. They <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ucpress.edu\/book\/9780520266254\/weighing-in\">rely more heavily on fast and prepared foods<\/a> for sustenance and comfort than the general population.<\/p>\n<p>The powerful relationship between people\u2019s attachment to fast-food restaurants and their inability to get fresh food creates a downward spiral. Corporate fast-food chains undermine food security by weakening local control over food production. In turn, diminished local control over food production perpetuates food insecurity. Now, when COVID-19 has changed routines so much, I see an opportunity to break the cycle.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"align-center zoomable\"><a href=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/344175\/original\/file-20200625-33557-16y6qe8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=1000&amp;fit=clip\"><img src=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/344175\/original\/file-20200625-33557-16y6qe8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;fit=clip\" sizes=\"(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/344175\/original\/file-20200625-33557-16y6qe8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=362&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=1 600w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/344175\/original\/file-20200625-33557-16y6qe8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=30&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=362&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=2 1200w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/344175\/original\/file-20200625-33557-16y6qe8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=15&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=362&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=3 1800w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/344175\/original\/file-20200625-33557-16y6qe8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=454&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=1 754w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/344175\/original\/file-20200625-33557-16y6qe8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=30&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=454&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=2 1508w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/344175\/original\/file-20200625-33557-16y6qe8.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=15&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=454&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=3 2262w\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a><figcaption><span class=\"caption\">Cars lined up on April 18, 2020 to receive groceries from the Los Angeles Regional Food Bank during the coronavirus pandemic.<\/span><br \/>\n<span class=\"attribution\"><a class=\"source\" href=\"https:\/\/www.gettyimages.com\/photos\/food-insecurity-during-covid-in-california?events=775495457&amp;family=editorial&amp;phrase=food%20insecurity%20during%20covid%20in%20California&amp;sort=best#license\">Mario Tama\/Getty Images<\/a><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>Fast-food restaurants as \u2018third places\u2019<\/h2>\n<p>People develop <a href=\"https:\/\/link.springer.com\/chapter\/10.1007\/978-1-4684-8753-4_1\">strong emotional bonds to places<\/a> that they return to again and again.<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.hss.mun.ca\/iserbooks\/publications\/show_for_title?id=117\">My research<\/a> shows that these bonds can extend to gardening, <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/j.landurbplan.2011.01.005\">agriculture<\/a> and food preparation, like cooking or hunting.<\/p>\n<p>People also form bonds with restaurants they frequent. Restaurants can function as \u201cthird places,\u201d a term coined by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.pps.org\/article\/roldenburg\">sociologist Ray Oldenburg<\/a> that describes safe spaces for conversation and community. <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/many-people-feel-lonely-in-the-city-but-perhaps-third-places-can-help-with-that-92847\">Community gardens<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/the-hypothesis-of-cultural-third-places-93509\">cultural centers<\/a> are often third places. Oldenburg built this idea off of \u201cfirst places\u201d and \u201csecond places\u201d to describe where people find comfort or familiarity outside home or work.<\/p>\n<p>Fast-food restaurants can also <a href=\"https:\/\/www.qsrmagazine.com\/outside-insights\/how-restaurants-are-becoming-third-space\">serve as third places<\/a>. <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/S0890-4065(02)00052-X\">Older adults<\/a> frequently socialize and relax there. Ambiance in restaurants has expanded beyond fast and convenient to homey and welcoming, providing amenities like complementary WiFi for those who wish to linger. The <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1177\/1094670507303011\">Starbucks barista<\/a> who knows your name keeps many people coming back for single-shot espressos or group meetups.<\/p>\n<h2>Fast food is a staple for the food-insecure<\/h2>\n<p>Food-insecure families report <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.2105\/AJPH.2011.300390\">facing challenges purchasing fresh fruits and vegetables<\/a>, including high costs relative to their household budgets. Lack of time and resources for meal preparation also contribute to food insecurity, along with <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/j.healthplace.2007.04.001\">racial segregation<\/a> and poverty.<\/p>\n<p>For all of these reasons, many low-income and food-insecure households rely on fast-food restaurants. Fast food offers perceived value to consumers who can get a lot of food for the price, though it <a href=\"https:\/\/fammedarchives.blob.core.windows.net\/imagesandpdfs\/fmhub\/fm2010\/April\/Andrew280.pdf\">may be more expensive<\/a> than fresh food.<\/p>\n<p>Worldwide, single-parent households are <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/j.worlddev.2017.01.006\">more likely to experience food insecurity<\/a>. Single parents are also likely to work multiple jobs and have time constraints on home meal preparation. Students, the disabled and the elderly often lack physical space and storage space for home meal preparation, and resort to fast food and pre-prepared meals.<\/p>\n<figure><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/E6ZpkhPciaU?wmode=transparent&amp;start=0\" width=\"440\" height=\"260\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><figcaption><span class=\"caption\">South Memphis, Tenn., is a food desert, dominated by fast-food outlets and convenience stores.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>Food insecurity in California\u2019s Central Valley<\/h2>\n<p>In fall 2019 and spring 2020, graduate research assistants and I surveyed undergraduate students at the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ucmerced.edu\">University of California, Merced<\/a> about food security and food-restaurant attachment. Many U.S. undergraduate students are <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/more-solutions-needed-for-campus-hunger-109648\">consistently food insecure<\/a> for a number of reasons, including resource and time constraints.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ucmerced.edu\/fast-facts\">Our students<\/a> are a resilient bunch: 73.2% are first generation college students, 63.8% are Pell Grant recipients from low-income households, and more than 90% self-describe as non-white. Ironically, many students come from families who harvest the food that feeds our nation. They often hold more than one job while attending classes full-time, in order to make ends meet.<\/p>\n<p>In preliminary results from our survey, 25% of students said that at least once a week they go all day without eating because they are too busy. 20% report that at least weekly they can\u2019t afford healthy or nutritious food. About 37% report lacking access to healthy food even when they know about supplemental food resources such as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cdss.ca.gov\/food-nutrition\/calfresh\">CalFresh<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Not surprisingly, 80% of respondents make their food decisions based upon price. However, 75% of students base their choices on convenience and access to food. Nearly 70% report selecting food for familiarity, comfort, or importance to culture, identity or lifestyle. More than 60% stated that they eat at their favorite restaurant \u2013 often a fast-food establishment \u2013 because it\u2019s comforting.<\/p>\n<h2>Crowding out local control<\/h2>\n<p>Fast-food restaurants aren\u2019t only problematic because of their calorie-rich menus. They are heavily concentrated businesses. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.businessinsider.com\/who-owns-taco-bell-arbys-burger-king-2019-3\">Ten companies own more than 50<\/a> of the biggest restaurant chains in the world. Many franchises have <a href=\"https:\/\/www.researchgate.net\/profile\/Isabel_Suarez-Gonzalez\/publication\/232852186_Multi-Unit_versus_Single-Unit_Franchising_Assessing_Why_Franchisors_Use_Different_Ownership_Strategies\/links\/561253a308ae4833751beb68\/Multi-Unit-versus-Single-Unit-Franchising-Assessing-Why-Franchisors-Use-Different-Ownership-Strategies.pdf\">multiple owners<\/a>, most of whom are unlikely to reside in the community. So local communities fail to control the food system.<\/p>\n<p>Concentrated purchasing power controls how food is grown and traded across the world. A basic tenet of my discipline, agricultural economics, is that international trade can benefit all. But in fact, disproportionate corporate power over the food system has created \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/j.healthplace.2010.04.013\">food deserts<\/a>\u201d where people can\u2019t get healthy food.<\/p>\n<div data-react-class=\"Tweet\" data-react-props=\"{&quot;tweetId&quot;:&quot;1266398196558958593&quot;}\"><\/div>\n<h2>Building new routines<\/h2>\n<p>Food and restaurants forge emotional bonds. It\u2019s complicated. Fast-food habits have become a \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/S0002-8223(02)90421-9\">normal part<\/a>\u201d of U.S. culture, and the most vulnerable populations often lack time and resources to break this routine.<\/p>\n<p>Rather than criticize such decisions, I believe society can build new food pathways. For example, in response to COVID-19 some communities are <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cookingforcommunity.org\">connecting charities with restaurants<\/a> to cook and deliver meals to the food insecure. In California, <a href=\"https:\/\/cropmobster.com\/stories\">CropMobster Exchange<\/a> matches locally grown food with those who need it.<\/p>\n<p>After being home bound, home cooked meals can become a habit once again. Americans are reportedly becoming more confident in their cooking and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theshelbyreport.com\/2020\/04\/17\/new-study-reveals-covid-19-impact-food-habits\/\">eating more healthy foods<\/a> as a result of pandemic stay-at-home directives. There is also renewed awareness of the <a href=\"https:\/\/news.northeastern.edu\/2020\/05\/13\/heres-how-you-can-help-fight-covid-19-from-your-kitchen\/\">food safety benefits<\/a> of cooking at home, and the value of maintaining a local food supply.<\/p>\n<p>These insights open the door for communities to better control how food is produced, processed and prepared. Many Americans have started <a href=\"https:\/\/www.forbes.com\/sites\/chelseadavis\/2020\/04\/16\/everything-to-know-about-starting-your-covid-19-victory-garden\/#2249ba7e46ea\">COVID-19 victory gardens<\/a>. In some places, <a href=\"https:\/\/nextcity.org\/daily\/entry\/introducing-the-community-fridge-a-new-way-to-tackle-food-insecurity\">community freezers and pantries<\/a> offer an easy way to donate food directly to people who need it.<\/p>\n<p>In my community, where fruit trees are abundant, you can donate your surplus produce to the Merced County Food Bank or volunteer for its <a href=\"http:\/\/mercedgleaning.org\">gleaning program Picking for a Purpose<\/a>. More creative thinking like this can help create new bonds and routines that make it easier for communities to feed themselves.<\/p>\n<p>[<em>Deep knowledge, daily.<\/em> <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/us\/newsletters?utm_source=TCUS&amp;utm_medium=inline-link&amp;utm_campaign=newsletter-text&amp;utm_content=deepknowledge\">Sign up for The Conversation\u2019s newsletter<\/a>.]<!-- Below is The Conversation's page counter tag. Please DO NOT REMOVE. --><img loading=\"lazy\" style=\"border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important; text-shadow: none !important;\" src=\"https:\/\/counter.theconversation.com\/content\/136227\/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic\" alt=\"The Conversation\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" \/><!-- End of code. If you don't see any code above, please get new code from the Advanced tab after you click the republish button. The page counter does not collect any personal data. More info: https:\/\/theconversation.com\/republishing-guidelines --><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/profiles\/catherine-keske-1032210\">Catherine Keske<\/a>, Associate Professor, Management of Complex Systems, <em><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/institutions\/university-of-california-merced-2056\">University of California, Merced<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n<p>This article is republished from <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\">The Conversation<\/a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/fast-food-is-comforting-but-in-low-income-areas-it-crowds-out-fresher-options-136227\">original article<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Catherine Keske, University of California, Merced Many Americans take comfort in the routine of jumping into the car and grabbing a burger. They choose restaurants with familiar faces behind the counter. They even yearn for a favorite \u201cgreasy spoon\u201d diner while having to cook for themselves at home during COVID-19. People feel emotionally attached to [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":44,"featured_media":21164,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1862],"tags":[216,272,7689,2525,8226,5890,2851,8266,2420,742,8267],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21163"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/44"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=21163"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21163\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":21196,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21163\/revisions\/21196"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/21164"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=21163"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=21163"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifeandnews.com\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=21163"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}